January 9, 1985
1600
Well here we are after three very busy and hectic weeks, and now we’re off. Lots of sentimental emotions, wondering if all the time and miles ahead will pass quickly or slowly. Wondering about all the unknowns of this particular passage: 5,600 miles and 35 to 45 days at sea, possibly without even radio phone patches home being possible. I have a great friend in Rob and we will be fine together. Yet, just today, talking with Christopher, I do miss him very much. The conditions we will face are unknown, as is our reaction to those conditions. Will the engine run ok in the cold and damp? Will it matter? Will the wind chill be similar to what I’ve seen in Maine or will it be worse? Are we organized enough? I know the boat is fully prepared and fully stocked, yet here we are lashing down jerry jugs and stowing fresh food after we’ve already left 4 hours ago. Yet, I know that in another day or two we’11 have everything absorbed on board.
As Rob said it’s the first chance we’ve had to relax in three weeks. Long days on the boat, long lists, long shopping lists including some hard-to-find hardware. What stands out even more is the degree of socializing and partying; virtually every night and the vast majority were late and rousing evenings. Partly because it was the holidays, partly because I knew it was the last chance to see so many fine friends: Roger and Molly, Sue and Bill, Kai and Eva, Kevin, and perhaps above all we were escaping for a time, thoughts about the difficulties of this trip, and laying in a store of emotional nourishment and good memories to carry us through. And yes, we are psyched although it’s much more an inner feeling of calm and confidence and belief in ourselves rather than an outward show. I know in my heart I am up for this and have the strength to overcome the difficulties. Of course somewhere inside I am afraid, at least nervous; but I know how much I want to see my family again, my parents, my friends and especially Christopher. I have to come home… for them, for me.
Forty days in terms of one’s life is nothing, yet in terms of being totally out of contact with those you love and cherish it’s a long time. But perhaps it’s harder for them.
We opened our first “surprise” tape that Kevin had bought (Rob and I each made a list of tapes we wanted) Perhaps God was watching us for as we unwrapped it and it was Elton John “Your Song” which brings back memories of long ago, thoughts of home. It was the perfect time to get that one.
It’s getting dark now here in the cockpit on a gentle reach, 4 knots boat speed, smooth seas. The sun has just set over New Zealand and in the morning there will only be empty horizon. When will I see New Zealand again? When will I see land again, and what land will it be? It’s not always easy to be free.
I’m looking forward to getting to the “Roaring 40’s” just to find out what we’re in for. It’s really hard to know what to expect, exactly. Rather I know what to expect, but what will it be really like?
Will have a few tears tonight thinking of those at home.
January 10
1800
Well, the Northerly wind just picked up to 12-15 knots, and we are finally at 5 knots rather than the 3 we did all day. Hopefully this will hold for awhile. Steering about 110 magnetic to clear East Cape, New Zealand.
Rob and I struggled to keep watch last night. I dozed off many tires during my 2-5 am watch. Rob then kept an eye out until dawn, and we both slept until 11:30! We were both exhausted from our shore-side activities.
Got a lot of projects done today. Still a couple of more days’ worth of projects before we will be ready for heavy weather. Today I stowed our three anchors, securely lashed to the forward cabin floor. Rob finished up the running backstays, and I started putting hinges and fasteners on all the food lockers.
Feeling in good spirits today. Am not thinking about the rough weather ahead until I started skimming through Bernard Moitessier’s “The Long Way”. Felt I better start thinking about it more than I am.
A beautiful sunny day today, very relaxing. Rob and I are relaxed in our watch-keeping and cooking chores. Best way to be, though we will have to be more disciplined and regimented in rough weather. It’s so easy having another experienced sailor aboard.
January 12
0300
It feels a little more like the sailing we’re going to get used to tonight. Force 6, staysail poled to windward and single reef in main sail, 6-7 knots. We changed over from the twins at midnight. With the twins surfed to 9.5 knots, a new record, but it really was too much sail up. Decks almost completely dry though. Boat sailing nicely now.
Got the lockers and floor boards fastened down today, and drawers locked. Still a few projects left but for the most part we are ready.
Passed East Cape lighthouse at midnight. Heading Southeast, no more land for a long, long time.
1820
Welcome to the Southern Ocean and we are only in latitude 38S or so. This morning at 0800 we had the staysail poled to windward, single-reefed mainsail on a broad-reach, averaging 6½ knots in Force 6. (25 knots) Very comfortable sailing and after watching for ships all night, Rob and I had both settled down in our bunks when wham! A very strong gust, the boat rounds up into the wind. Rob is on deck in a second as he has been sleeping in the main cabin. I struggle to get out of my forward cabin enclave, pausing to pull on a pair of jeans. Rob shouts down “NO TIME TO GET DRESSED MAX” so I literally run out of my pants, leaving than on the floor behind. Stark naked in a freezing rain I run forward while Rob steers the boat off the wind. All is chaos. The mainsail is torn in half along a seam (right along the first reef point) and a shackle has broken on the mainsheet blocks – the main sheet hangs uselessly over the side.
On the foredeck, the staysail is flapping furiously, trying to shake free the 18-foot port spinnaker pole which is bent 90 degrees with the base by which it attached to the mast exploded. I lower the sails and lightly secure them, then Rob and I go below to dress properly for work on deck. Two hours later we have things straightened out, all well except we are minus one twin-pole, and we can only use the mainsail double-reefed.
We have spent the day sailing on a broad reach with trysail and reefed-staysail (which is similar in size to a storm jib) averaging 5 knots. The boat is fairly level, decks staying remarkably dry though we are still in the lee of New Zealand to some extent, about 70 miles to the West of us.
We crossed the 180’ meridian today, back to “normal” time. We get to live January 12 all over again tomorrow.
The barometer gave no indication of approaching bad weather last night, hanging around 1015 mb, but is now down a shade to 1013.
So we got a very small taste of the power of the South Ocean today. We have got to be a little more conservative in reducing sail, and being content with a knot less speed occasionally, than we’re used to in the Tropics. We’ll likely use 3 smaller sails (Trysail or double-reefed main, staysail or reefed staysail, #3 or storm jib on the bowsprit) rather than 2 of the larger size. This is a safer rig, easier to handle and easier to change sail area for diverse conditions.
January 12 again (after Dateline)
1700
Sailing was very pleasant last night, trysail and reefed staysail, 4½-5 knots and we took advantage by sleeping 12 hours. Finally all caught up on Z’s.
Today has been a lovely NW Force 5 wind (20 knots), sunny day, more projects done such as caulk and cover chain down hole on bow, lash jerry jugs better, lash the 2 big cockpit cushions down, etc. We are now sailing on a broad reach with the double-reefed mainsail, full staysail, and the #3 on the bow. 3 smallish sails but this is easier on the rig, and it will be simple to drop one or two sails for any squalls, or if we simply want to reduce sail for the night.
We have been eating well, generally no breakfast, but sandwiches and sometimes soup at noontime. For dinner, we started this trip with a pressure cooker full of stew that Eva and Dagmar had made for us. We kept adding things to it each day to keep it going, for example last night added corned beef and cabbage to change the flavor. It is so convenient, maybe we’ll keep it going a while yet.
January 14
1600
Yesterday wasn’t a bad day, WNW wind force 4-5, but the past 24 hours, since 1600 yesterday, the wind has been mostly light and worse, from the SE and now ESE – the direction we want to go! Rainy today but temperature still mid 60’s. We’re being forced to the Northeast and are now back up in Latitude 38 somewhere. Dead reckoning probably not very accurate because the wind has been everywhere, both in direction and strength.
We are sailing mainly now with the double-reefed main, full staysail and the #3 because we are getting squalls off and on and don’t want the big genoa up for those. It is quite easy to drop the #3 when necessary. In fact, I feel the wind piping up a bit now so best go and have a look.
With the wide course changes and light winds lately our average days ran since leaving, in a straight line, is 110 miles per day. We had better start improving on that! The Pilot Charts suggest that we cannot start counting on predominant Westerly winds for another 1000 miles or so. We need a favorable breeze for a few days to get us over that way.
I keep thinking 40 days and at times it seems like a very long time and at other times it seems (as it really is) really a tiny amount of time out of
one’s life. I also think 5-6 months before I see my family and friends as being a very long time yet on the other hand a very short period of one’s life especially since I have already been away two years and four months. So the endless dilemma. When I am home finally I will probably be thinking longingly of my time in the Southern Ocean, here now I am thinking frequently of home. Though it varies day to day. When we are making good time my spirits are of course better.
We really haven’t reached the Southern Ocean yet, or at least what we will expect from it weather wise, for the seas have been relatively smooth (though we often have a fair swell running from various directions) and of course we’ve only had the one 24-hour period of Force 6 (25 knot winds.) Then again we have not crossed the 40th parallel yet.
I am now reading “Mi1a 18” by Leon Uris about the Jews in the Warsaw ghetto resisting the Nazis during World War II. Perhaps I chose to read this particular book now so that I can think, when the going tough out here, mentally and physically, that this is nothing compared to the mental and physical and emotional torrent those people faced.
January 15
2400
Still trying to wake up for my watch. Smooth pleasant sailing now in Force 4, but close hauled port tack with #1 genoa up. Winds are ESE and we are steering just East of true South.
We talked to John, the weatherman from Norfolk Island today on the ham radio. A couple of highs around, giving us Easterlies. John says for Westerlies we probably want to go to 45-46 South. So we will work on our Southing. Now at 40S – 300 miles to 45S.
January 16
2000
Today was a little bit frustrating sailing wise with the wind ESE at force 5-6 (27-27 knots) so we were close hauled on port tack barely making True South. Heading nearly ninety degrees from our desired course, but we felt we’d better get South or we would never see any Westerlies. This afternoon we did get headed and tacked, and are now sailing about True East in force 6-7 (28 knots), close reaching. We have up a storm jib on the forestay, the full staysail, and the trysail – three small sails driving us through the seas at 6-6½ knots. Not too uncomfortable, some water over the decks but not too excessive. If the wind comes up any more we will replace the staysail with a storm jib. We are praying the wind will let us steer East or better. Really, the past few days the wind has been between East and South, and according to Pilot charts and general weather flow this is an unusual direction – and totally unfavorable for us.
We continue to eat a lightish lunch; sandwiches, or cheese sardines and crackers; and of course still have our stew going in the pressure cooker which we add to and diversify each night; so far over 8 days we have added:
canned (jarred) beef burgoyne, canned (tinned) corned beef, salami, curried canned (jarred) lamb; cabbage, potatoes, onions, carrots, peas, corn, squash, and beans. So there is a little of everything in there. Very delicious. We add various spices each night as well and yesterday “converted” it to a curry; when we get tired of curry we will phase that out and switch to something else. It’s so easy to have a meal started, such that you need only add anything you feel like, you have a one-pot meal, and don’t need to wash the pot after each meal. Very simple. We each eat out of our orange and yellow one quart plastic bowls, (looks a bit like a puppy dish) which hold a lot and doesn’t spill easily though it may not be very stylish.
January 17
2300
Our spirits are remarkably chipper and positive this evening considering we are now clawing our way towards the Northeast in a Force 8+ breeze (34-40 knots) under storm jib and trysail. The wind is still from the ESE, exactly the direction we want to go, and I believe this is the fourth consecutive day the winds have been contrary. There is a hurricane in the vicinity of the New Hebrides and perhaps this is related to that, for SE is not a common direction for the wind in this area. We are slowly being pushed Northeast and before too long may be forced back North of 40 degrees South.
What a shame, if the wind were only 40 degrees more to the south we would be flying along with sheets cracked, heading East. Instead we are losing ground, or at best not really making any substantial progress. But on this our 9th day out we accept the fact that all this is costing us is time, and on a 5,000 plus mile voyage a few days will not much matter. We will (I trust) have plenty of Westerlies to make up for this lost time later on.
The boat is riding quite well, not too much water over the decks. Though earlier in the day when we had a 2nd storm jib set on the outer forestay, and were slamming to windward at 6 knots, we took a lot of water into the bilge via the aft cockpit locker. In theory this is water tight but in practice it drains to the bilge. I have an idea to make it reasonably water tight and yet still be able to open it, for our engine exhaust sea cock is located here so we must have access to it. Otherwise I would caulk it and seal it shut.
Every now and then we really get smacked by a vicious sea. The wind is whistling pretty good through the rigging. Seems to be picking up a bit the last hour. I tried to tape record the sound of the wind but too much interference (probably too much wind around the microphone.) I think we will be hearing this melody a lot. Main and forward cabins still completely dry.
January 18
2330
Hove-to 24 hours. Force 8+ (34-40 knots). Storm jib only. The boat was being overpowered with storm jib and trysail so we took in the trysail. Beam to the wind and seas. Riding well for the most part. Today we had a wave break around us, it broke along a distance of 3 boat lengths, or about 120 feet. But “Christopher Robin” just heeled a bit and let it slide by.
So no progress whatsoever today. We talked to weatherman John who thinks this high is now South of us, so hopefully tomorrow it will have moved on to the East, the wind will hopefully come more to the East and Northeast, diminish, and we can be on our way.
There is a single hander down around 50S, sailing non-stop Sydney to the Canary Islands, so we have some company down here. He is apparently checking in to “Tony’s” New Zealand ham radio net so we will be able to keep in touch with him; from Belgium, I believe.
Lots of reading and sleeping today. Glad to be here rather than up north where three cyclones are belting Fiji and other areas with winds 100-150 knots.
As soon as the wind allows we are going to get South come hell or high water. We would love to be running off with this wind – flying conditions. God damned South Easterly wind. Some pretty violent gusts occasionally, like right now. “C.R.” very comfortable though. Great boat. Dry and solid.
January 19
1700
SAT NAV POSITION S40’50” Wl71’10”
All I can do this afternoon is laugh and say “What fools we mortals be.” Last night we continued to be hove-to with only a storm jib, the boat riding comfortably on a 15-25 degree heel. At 0330 Rob and I were snoozing peacefully in our bunks when the gates of Hell crashed open. I awoke to hear a tremendous roar, pressed against the underside of the deck as I was in the upper bunk, and heard water pouring in below. We had been rolled past 120 degrees and I am quite certain I was up and had struggled out of my bunk before we had come back up to 90. I was sure, for all the water and the tremendous bang, that our portholes had been stove in, but a quick look confirmed that they were intact. All the water had come simply through the main hatch which we had bolted shut, but with a 4 inch gap for ventilation. I grabbed a flash light and looked out the hatch, and probably would have wagered that our mast was no longer there, but it was standing proudly, and I think I gained more confidence in the boat in that moment than at any other time ever before.
A quick look around the deck revealed much chaos but no immediate concerns, so Rob and I spent our first 45 minutes picking up the interior, which, all things considered, was not too bad. Our icebox (now used for dry goods) lids had come off, so there was quite a collection of dry peas, hot chocolate, etc. sitting on the Nav Station (fortunately all are packed in ziplock bags). The pressure cooker had somehow wiggled out of its strap and likewise ended up on the Nav station. A jar of honey had broken on the floor, and a jar of peanut butter had somehow found its way into the icebox after the dry goods spilled out.
I pumped the bilge out with the electric bilge pump, then waited five minutes and turned it on again, it was very pleasant to hear that it did not come back on, meaning we were not taking on any water. The only real concern I had was the satellite navigation set. I had it wrapped in plastic and duct tape, but since it was on the lee side it had taken some water around it, so I dried it out, turned it on and am happy to see it working. We will leave it on a day or two and let it dry out as it heats up.
A continuing source of amusement for Rob and I is a couple of cards – we had opened a new deck of cards the day before, and left the two Jokers sitting on the table. In the roll both Jokers found new homes wedged in the woodwork on the starboard ceiling. One Joker is perched between a hanging picture and the ceiling, the other is held by a corner under one of the ceiling beams. Both Jokers are even facing outwards, and we have named them Rob and Max as I think that is the point someone above (or below) is trying to make.
At first light Rob and I dressed for deck work. Two of the leeward stanchions were bent inward, and one broken, and even the leeward aft pulpit (1″ SS tubing) was bent inward. The stanchions are our own damn fault for having a weather cloth tied on, and one of the stanchions for having our cockpit table lashed to it. This I had been planning to stow below, but we honestly didn’t count on getting rolled this early in the game. Rob and I were able to bend the stern pulpit back out, for it was interfering with the wind vane. We spent two hours cleaning, and took every last item off the deck and off the rails (cockpit table, broken spinnaker pole, man overboard rig and pole, weather cloths) to stow below. We also moved the warps and the tires away from the rails and lashed them more in-board.
A question I may have asked of myself one day, so I will answer it now – was I scared? Not in the least, I think in the moment of waking up and thinking that portholes were smashed and hearing water pouring in, that the instinct to survive takes over completely along with a calm determination to take all steps necessary to keep the boat afloat. A good instinct. Fortunately not necessary – this time.
Super-bowl Sunday – January 20
0130
Winds now Easterly, squally. Heading true South with two storm jibs, trysail; 6 knots in frequent squalls, 4 knots in the lulls. John today forecast Easterlies for us and, hopefully, in 48 hours North westerlies.
Apparently the strong and persistent Southeaster we have had was caused by a high to our Southwest coupled with a low to the North and Northeast. The low was in fact, the first of 3 hurricanes which have leveled parts of Fiji. We have much sympathy with our friends anchored up North who have been checking with John on the details of the 3 cyclones.
In the roll many of our tapes got damp, including the 19 new tapes which are gift wrapped as surprises. We had to open than all to dry them off, and now are in 7th heaven which such an influx of new diversions.
We added a canned ham to our pressure cooker stew this evening. I believe in my bowl tonight I found beef, lamb, ham, and salami. Also a little of every spice imaginable. Anyway it’s warm and filling and in general tastes great.
January 20
2330
A quiet day for us today, beer and popcorn listening to the Superbowl. Close reaching on port tack, heading True South in an ESE breeze force 5-6 (17-27 knots) Storm jib, staysail and trysail, 5-6 knots. Finally this evening the weather let us up and now heading South-South-East. We lost 4+ days in the SE gale, and today crossed a point we had been 4 days earlier!
Time (I hope) to make up for lost time. Now at 43S, 172W.
January 21
1900
A nice sailing day, NE breeze Force 5, heading Southeast. Double reefed mainsail, full staysail, and storm jib on the forestay. 5½ knots boatspeed. Today we did some projects as a result of our experience in the Southeast gale. I made dacron linings for the 2 cockpit lockers to keep them reasonably watertight. Rob began work on the 2 stanchions which got broken in the roll. He also end-for-ended the 15 foot aluminum antenna, which got bent in the roll but surprisingly did not break. I fixed the sink drain with lots of epoxy, as this had broken. Also put grease on the line which takes up the running back stays, where they run through blocks, to reduce chafe. A few more projects to do if tomorrow is also a nice day. There is a low to the West of us, should be here in a few days, so we will get our first taste of what is normally a series of depressions which roll across the Southern ocean at regular intervals. It will be nice to be off the wind after a week of headwinds.
We are now about 44’30” South, 171’ West. Temperature last night was 60’. Still not very cold yet.
January 23
0430
We’ve been on a beam reach all day and night, now doing 6½ knots. #3 staysail, mainsail, and most significantly, steering True East – we can finally sail the direction we want to.
Standing my 3-6 am watch. Rob and I alternate nights, each night one of us has 9-12 and 3-6am the other has midnight to 3am. During the day we are pretty casual, in other words, we are both generally up most of the day so if one of us wants to take a nap it’s no problem to do so.
Cooking – whoever feels like it cooks lunch, same with dinner. The person who didn’t cook dinner cleans up the day’s dishes. A good system – sometimes you feel like cooking -sometimes not. If one of us is especially hungry he usually starts cooking!
We called Rob’s dad today on the ham radio, asked him to call my parents. They have had no word since we left two weeks ago, so it is time. They probably all thought we were much further along, as we should be.
January 24
0100
DR Position 45S 165W
Sitting here on night watch listening to Schooner Fare tapes which are, and always have been, a source of inspiration on passages, and also provide a bond to Orr’s Island and home where the best families and friends in the world reside. It is a fantastic privilege to be able to go away for years and thousands of miles and yet to know there is a little spot on earth where you will make your way back to eventually.
We averaged 6 knots for the past 24 hours, now down to 5 knots in a Northwesterly breeze. #3, full staysail, mainsail (double-reefed of course) If it is like this tomorrow perhaps we will set the genoa. We are always a bit hesitant to put this up, because squalls and squally weather seem to lurk around every corner in these waters.
I decided today I simply must bathe tomorrow, regardless of the temperature or the weather, and also wash my long-johns which have not been off for perhaps ten days when I had my last bath. This is simply one of those trips where cleanliness is not a high priority, particularly later on as the temperature drops. My “beard” to use the term loosely has finally stopped scratching, but is looking pretty bald around the cheeks.
We’ve settled completely into life at sea, one day passes into the next. We have made the important psychological adjustment in our concept of time whereby we do not think about how long we have been gone for or how much longer we have to go. We sail the boat according to the weather conditions at the time, sleep as our loose watch schedule and tiredness of our bodies indicate, eat dinner when the sun starts setting astern of us.
The only thing we really watch the clock for is our 2 daily radio schedules. One at noontime when we “check in” to the US Pacific Maritime Mobile Net, say hello, give our position, and if we wish and if propagation is good we could make calls home. The other in late afternoon when we confer with John, an Australian weatherman stationed on Norfolk Island. We give him our position and he gives us a synopsis of the weather, and incoming weather, for our location.
Other little traditions including running the engine every other day for 2 hours to charge the batteries; usually some Cribbage before dinner. Rob and I both are quite easy going and good-natured, no problems whatsoever in that area.
January 24
2300
Steaming along at 6½ knots with the genoa poled out to port, staysail and main to starboard, broad reach Force 4-5, smooth seas. Today was sunny, took baths, dried out wet clothes and linen, washed my 10 day long johns (all set for another 10 days), fixed the broken stanchion, picked up the interior, and cooked a nice ham and mashed potato dinner. We finally got tired of one pot curry stews for the time being. Spirits great even though we’ve still a long way to go.
Minor concern is potable water. We seem to be using 1 to 1½ gallons per day, but carry 100 gallons so there should be plenty. We should be able to catch some along the way in any case. Needs to be watched on this passage, though, which could run to 50 days.
Only other shortage seems to be regular coffee (we do have plenty of instant if our taste buds can adapt). I don’t normally drink coffee much at sea because I don’t like to be kept awake artificially; ie if I am tired, I should sleep. But on this passage, with Rob, we get plenty of sleep at night (6 hours, in two 3-hour stretches) so I do enjoy coffee in the morning. Oh well, it sure is nice out here. Really looking forward to the next 30 days.
January 26
0030
Averaging 6 knots to 6½ knots all day with genoa up on a broad
reach; but tonight with the wind up to Force 6 (22-27 knots) we changed down to storm jib – staysail – double reefed main.
Almost time to swap the trysail for the main, but the boat is still in good control at present. We’ll keep an eye on it though.
Seas remarkably smooth the past few days. Fog occasionally closes in to ¼ mile visibility.
Great day to be out here.
January 26
2300
Pretty good breeze today Force 6 or so, (22-27 knots) Northwest. Storm jib, storm jib, and trysail – our 3 small sails pulled us along at 6-7 knots. A good sized sea and swells built up. This evening however a front is passing through and we expect Southwesterly winds tomorrow about 25 knots. It’s already shifting around towards the SW. Will probably jibe to starboard tonight. Presently have up storm jib-staysail-double reefed main as the wind has eased somewhat.
Today I rigged up a system whereby we can steer from the companionway, using a 2 part block and tackle on either side of the tiller. We tested it and think it will work well, for the times we may have to help the wind vane steer in very big sea conditions.
Our stove is giving us trouble – very yellow sooty flame- probably some water in the kerosene. So we will replace the kerosene in the tank tomorrow, try to settle the new kerosene and siphon off the top. A real nuisance so it’s important we get that fixed.
Good time made the past few days – 125-145 miles per day. All very happy and well aboard “Christopher Robin”.
January 27
2300
I’ll get no sympathy from those at home having a cold winter, but it is now 56F on deck and gets chilly with the wind blowing. Rob and I drink almost exclusively hot beverages, and several times each day heat up water and fill the thermos. Hot tang is usually my favorite.
Today was very pleasant, sunny, Westerly wind 15-25 so we have the staysail poled to windward, main to leeward, 6+ knots. The sun is refreshing because it’s almost always cloudy, particularly at night, and stargazing is not usually feasible.
Today I replaced the kerosene in the pressure tank with new fuel from a different jerry jug, replaced one burner and cleaned the other one. Nice to see a normal blue flame, and no more black sooty pots. Had I not been able to correct this we would not be able to use the cabin heater, though we have not used it yet. Our hull is insulated and is fairly temperate below decks, jut a bit of chill.
We will pass the 150 degree meridian tomorrow and finally feel we were getting on. Though as Rob said today it is really very pleasant to be out here, we eat well, sleep well, have leisure time to read and think, and really are in a sense timeless. It is becoming very understandable how Bernard Moitessier could sail around the world non-stop and then decide to keep right on going half way again around. Things like telephones and television and schedules seem very remote to us, and it is nice that way. So far the Roaring Forties are treating us very well, but we know it is only a matter of time before that observation changes. We see Albatross occasionally with their tremendous wing-span, today saw one which must have an 8-foot wingspan. What an interesting life they must lead out here.
January 28
2200
Another beautiful day, partly sunny, Westerly breeze 10-20, genoa poled to windward 5½-6 knots. Clear skies tonight have allowed a bit of star gazing on the Southern horizon, where there are lots of new faces (new to me).
We should be about right on the 150’ meridian, at 45’ 45” South longitude. We are approaching the half way point, at around 135W or 140W. Even though we haven’t covered nearly half the degrees of longitude, the distance between each degree as we get down to 50-55 South will be much less. Thus we have to start thinking more in terms of Great Circle distances.
Another great day to be alive out here.
January 29
2200
The barometer has gone from 1015mb at 10am to 1009mb at 4pm to 1002mb now at 10pm and the wind has increased to Force 8 (34-40) or possibly force 9 (41-47 knots). The seas have not had much time to build but they are getting there fast. We took down the trysail a couple of hours ago and are now running with just a storm jib on the bow, averaging about 6 knots. We decided we better stand deck watch, helping to steer down the waves and to keep a close eye on conditions, so Rob is on deck now for a two hour stint. I will go up midnight to 0200. We have had a few good waves over the deck but it’s likely to get worse as the seas build. The wind is NW and may be related to cyclone “Frita” which is WNW of us and coming our way, although gradually fading. It is still quite a ways away but is probably coupling with the High which is NE of us to give us this wind.
Rob and I try to intelligently evaluate the situation and make the proper decision on what to do. Our next step, if conditions worsen, will be to run under bare poles, continuing to steer by hand.
Spirits are good and we are both well-rested and just had a nice lamb curry dinner with baked squash. No regrets whatsoever being here. I do find myself thinking of my parents and Christopher, and thinking it is essential that we come through all this.
January 31
0900
That wind died almost as quickly as it came up. By 0300 we had the trysail and a 2nd storm jib up, but then the wind died almost completely and we spent several miserable hours slatting and rolling in the large leftover seas which were occasionally breaking.
Yesterday we had light westerly winds, and did only a little over 100 miles for 24 hours. This morning the wind is Northerly Force 4-5 so we’re doing 6+ knots on a reach, sunny skies. Hope it lasts.
February 1
1430
A fast night last night, broad reach 20 knots, staysail and mainsail, 6 knots. This morning the wind has piped up to 30-40 knots, so we’re making the same 6 knots under storm jib and trysail. Boat steering well though if wind holds long-term and seas build we will have to keep an eye on it.
Just passed 140W at about 46’30” South. So we’re now about half way to Cape Horn by approximate Great Circle Route.
Main cabin completely dry.
February 1
2130
That 30-40 knot wind died to 10 knots for a couple of hours, enticing us to re-set the mainsail and #3, then switched to Southwest and filled in at 35-40 knots. So we went back to trysail and storm jib, doing a steady 7 knots on a reach. This became too much as the wind increased in gusts so we took in the trysail and headed off the wind a bit, 6+ knots. It now feels like it is abating somewhat so we’ll probably have the trysail back up soon.
Lots of sail changes in these latitudes. We must do 5 or 6 a day on average, on days when conditions are variable. Rob and I each have more or less standard procedures when setting the trysail, storm jibs, or when furling them, each of us does our tasks and we hardly need speak to each other. Changes are usually pretty smooth and painless.
There is a lot of “spaghetti” around the cockpit; jib sheet, spinnaker pole guy, staysail sheet, traveler control line, running back line on each side; plus mainsheet, trysail sheet, boom vang, and the steering control lines. We are continually coiling and trying to keep these organized.
The steering control lines we frequently adjust and cleat down; these limit the amount of play in the tiller to prevent the boat from over steering and slewing, particularly when the big seas try to knock the stern off course. They help a great deal to keep the boat from yawing too much.
It is a “balmy” 47’ on deck now.
February 2
2400
We’ve made good time today. 6½ knots, broad reach SW wind 20-30 knots, storm jib on forestay, storm jib later replaced by staysail on intermediate forestay, and trysail. Feels like the breeze is fading now however. Weather systems move very fast is these latitudes and the weather changes fast as a result – for better as for worse.
Baked ham and baked potatoes for dinner tonight. We’ve been eating tons of the good New Zealand cheese of which we have lots. Also on the particularly cool nights we eat either a giant sized chocolate bar (of which we bought 25) or a big bag of assorted nuts and raisins. Breakfast usually either cereal, or when I am on my 0600-0900 watch I sometimes cook myself toast, 3 eggs covered with melted cheese. Then lunch. Then usually sardines and cheese and crackers at 5PM. Dinner at 8 or 9. So we’re eating very well.
This evening I replaced the galley potable water pump which had leaking valves. Our potable water holding out very well. We have used about 30 gallons of the 100 we carry after 25 days. Plenty left, divided between the 2 main ship’s tanks as well as an emergency 5 gallon jerry jug and another 5 gallons or more in the hot water tank. It hasn’t rained but very little so it is good we still have plenty.
February 5
0100
Last night we had up storm jib, staysail and trysail, 6 knots on broad
reach, SW breeze 25 knots. This morning changed to mainsail and #3 poled to windward. Then #1 poled to windward. Now we’re jibed and are on a broad reach, NW breeze 20 knots, main and #1. We may have to change down if the wind increases but for now is OK as the seas are remarkably smooth and the vane is handling the boat well. 6½ to 7 knots, port tack.
2200
47S 127W
NW breeze has built to 30-35 so we’re down to a single storm jib and
trysail, 6 to 6½ knots. Seas not too bad. 15 feet or so. Mick, the Bulgarian
single hander, continues to be about 200 miles ESE of us, where he started out, so we’re going about the same speed. Strange to think that there are extremely few people within 1,000 miles of us, even 1,500 miles. It is in fact entirely possible that Nick, Rob and I are the only humans within a 600 to 800 or even 1,000 mile radius. I don’t think many ships travel this way, and there is no land whatsoever.
Life is fairly comfortable, routine, relaxed, easy going. The past few days
have dragged a bit, or at least I look forward to the night time, when
between sleep and the rather enjoyable 3-hour watches, time goes quickly. Then you wake up in the morning and can figure in another 120-140 miles progress. I am enjoying the sailing and so on, but there is the feeling that it’s time to get on with the major challenge, heading Southeast. The “Roaring 40’s” have been good to us, in fact I am pleasantly surprised that the Westerly winds have blown true and yet not too strong. This is only the 3rd occasion I believe since we’ve been in the 40’s that the wind has been over 30 knots. We have about 1000 to 1200 miles to travel Eastwards (to get to a point around 50S and 100W) when we will start Southeast. So I look forward to getting these miles behind us, stop the anticipating, and see how the 50’s treat us.
February 6
2300
A front came through just before sunrise bringing WNW winds 15-20 knots. So we’ve had our #3 poled to windward along with the mainsail (still double reefed as always) doing 5½-6 knots with smooth seas, and sunny skies. I just finished reading Cosmos (Carl Sagan) so it’s fun watching the full moon, though the moon prevents much star gazing on this, an unusually clear night.
Nothing too eventful to speak of. Our daily highlights seem to be the 3
radio schedules we keep each day. At 1200 we let our New Zealand friends on “Tony’s Net” know how we’re doing, as well as compare notes with Mick. At 1300 we give our position to the Pacific Maritime Mobile Net, as they seem very interested in our trip. Gerry, a woman from Seattle, is most friendly, and we occasionally make a call to our families through her. At 1820 we speak with John, the weatherman from Norfolk Island. He has been extremely accurate in letting us know what to expect wind-wise, though we are just now getting out of range of his weather charts.
All these radio friends are as friendly and helpful as can be, and we look
forward to speaking with them each day.
We are beginning to ease our way South a bit so that we will be around 50S when we reach 110 to 100 West. Then we’ll be in good position to head Southeast.
February 7
0830
With the wind lightening we set the #1 genoa about an hour ago, but since then the barometer has continued to fall and dark clouds are building up. Rob yesterday put a red strip of adhesive sail tape on the trysail where it occasionally rubs on the spreader. We jokingly look forward to our next opportunity to try out the trysail with its new racing stripe.
February 7
2230
Presently at 48S, 122W. Staysail poled to windward, main to leeward, 15
knots WNW wind, 5½ to 6 knots boatspeed. The barometer is down to 997mb, the lowest it’s been, so we’re keeping an eye on the weather.
Main cabin still completely dry. For that matter, we have had very little
water on deck lately.
Talked to Rob’s father this evening so it is fun to think of him calling my
parents, who will call the Edwards, etc.
We are now about 200 miles inside the “Extreme Limit of Icebergs” but I
don’t think there is any problem here. Weatherman John is getting iceberg info for us. We’re also hoping to contact one of the US Coast Guard Ice breakers who come on the radio occasionally, as they’re likely to have good information.
February 8
2300
Wind really howling this evening out of the South. Force 8, (34-40 knots) or 9 (41-47 knots). Storm jib and trysail. Starboard tack reach. If the seas
grow we’ll have to remove the trysail. Seems OK now though as the seas had been quite smooth and it will take them awhile to build up. 6+ knots, not too uncomfortable.
Since January 22, after our SE gale had finally gone, we’ve averaged 131
miles per day. Finally today, our sun shots indicated that we may have
picked up some favorable current. We will see if this is confirmed in the
next few days. Pilot charts indicate we should be getting 5-15 miles per day or so. This would be nice. Once we get below 50 South it will be to our advantage to make good time, in order to lessen the total amount of time we are exposed in the “Furious 50’s”.
February 9
2230
Removed trysail this morning and spent the day under single storm jib only off the forestay doing 6+ knots. Force 8 to 9 (35-45 knots) WNW wind, later shifting to WSW. Some pretty good seas built up and I had a little fun on the foredeck taking pictures. Then just after I had used all the film in the camera a great wave broke around the stern; it would have been a tremendous picture. But for better or worse I am sure there will be more opportunities. Now 1800 miles to go to that pointed piece of land which I feel superstitious about naming aloud. We’re beginning to use the cabin heater more frequently, on today for an hour to take the chill off. Temperature low to mid 40’s on deck. Lots of condensation develops on our bronze window frames (portholes) with the heater on. But still our clothes and main cabin are dry.
Wind seems to be easing this evening though it has a way of doing that then coming right back up again. In the lulls it’s a nuisance because the boat rolls more in the seas. There is now a cross swell of the leftover NW seas (approximately 20 feet and breaking at the height of the NW breeze this afternoon) and the new SW seas. Not too bad this time but in the future we have to be very careful when the cross seas develop. They can be dangerous to the boat. It is usually best to take the larger of the 2 stern-to, and the seas from the other direction are then on the quarter or the beam – not great but at least you are taking the worst seas on the stern.
The wind vane today handled the seas very well. When it is blowing so hard the vane tends to work well since of course the force of the wind exerts that much more corrective influence on the wind vane.
February 11
0700
Wind continued strong yesterday and last night. Then became unsettled, light, and has now shifted to SW Force 6-7 (22-33 knots) Storm jib and trysail 6 knots. Seas settled down quite a bit during the night, but are building from the SW now. Hard to know what’s happening. Barometer down to 990 right now. So we will keep the amount of sail down and see what happens.
February 11
2130
Pretty brutal day. Wind built to Force 9-10 (40-50 knots) and in squalls
probably reached higher. Some very impressive seas to go along with the wind. After we surfed to over 10 knots with storm jib only up we went under bare poles for several hours, at 5-6 knots and once surfed to 9.8. No danger of pitch-poling though. But we are standing by the tiller on 2-hour watches as we have to help the vane keep square to the especially big seas. We now have up “Naiad’s” storm jib which at 36 sq ft is about half the size of our regular ones. We no longer seem to be getting the violent squalls which were so common earlier today. The squalls I imagine reached Force 11 (56-63 knots) or so – blowing tops right off waves, about 50% of the entire surface of the sea white – and each squall had little hailstones about the size of a match head which sting your face. Temperature about 42 so after 2 hours on deck you are a bit chilly, though our clothes are doing pretty well keeping us warm. I made lamb curry with rice for dinner and ate it as hot as I could
stand, swallowing quickly so as not to burn my mouth. Cabin here is very cozy though with the heater going. So a rough day but we are making good progress, and also learning a lot. The boat is doing very well. We had a warp which we began to prepare but I think we won’ t need that except in cases where the seas have more time to
build up. As long as we keep the stern to the seas we are OK.
February 14 0100
We continued to steer by hand all night and yesterday morning (12th) went under bare poles as even our smallest storm jib was over powered in the frequent squalls which may have reached Force 11 (56-63 knots) or so. Speed 5-6 knots under bare poles, a good speed as it allows good steerage way yet without surfing down waves. The waves at 20’-30’ or more were, many of them, breaking and it was vital to take these stern-to. It would take only 1 of them taken wrongly to be trouble for us. So we continued our 2-hour rotation yesterday and again last night.
Two hours is about the most we can reasonably stand on deck before face, hands, and feet start getting chilled. This means though that on the off watch you’re limited to little more than an hour of sleep – you come off watch and it takes 10-15 minutes to get off wet weather gear, dry off, drink a cup of hot tea, hang up mittens to dry, etc. Also another 10-15 to get ready to go on deck again. To say nothing of the fact that it might take a few minutes to change gears and relax, once you hit the bunk. And if you want to eat, fire up the cabin heater, hang up any damp clothes to dry, or do any project whatsoever it pretty much kills any chance to sleep.
And yet we continued that rotation for 60 hours and could have kept on much longer if necessary but fortunately the wind abated by this morning, though it took all night for the gale to blow itself out – the wind would be down to 20 knots between squalls, but back to 40 or so in the squalls. So we had to keep sail enough only to handle the squalls (our single storm jib) which was too little to make much headway in the lulls. A bit frustrating. Either you’re fighting through a squall, or dawdling about under-canvassed in the lulls. One strange aspect – a bit scary – is that some of the “squalls” or very violent winds materialize out of nowhere; in other words they’re not always accompanied by a dark cloud or other indication of their approach.
Today turned out to be absolutely lovely, 15-20 knots westerly breeze, the
seas had subsided remarkably quickly back to the regular swell, and it was sunny. So I took a bath and did a few projects: filled kerosene tank,
changed chafed tiller line, replaced broken tiller cleat, removed broken
stanchion, etc. A great, relaxing day, very good for morale and spirits, and of course for catching up on sleep and warmth.
But tonight the wind is WNW back up to Force 6 and higher (25 knots steady and more) storm jib only 5-6 knots, dropping barometer so perhaps here we go again.
February 14
2230
A good sailing day, Westerly wind 20-25 knots. Staysail only, doing 5½-6
knots. A confused sea makes it quite rolly, but if we set the main or
trysail don’t think we could steer well off the wind straight towards our
destination. As it is it’s hard enough to head straight downwind, we more or less end up tacking downwind somewhat. Can’t risk poling out the staysail because we are apt to dip the pole in the water; also it’s a wee bit windy for that.
Now at 51S 101W and now that we’re starting to get into the 50’s we’re
making a more concerted effort to keep up good boat speed. We are exposed in these latitudes to potentially vicious storms and the sooner we can get through, the better our chances.
Temperature was 48’ which seemed quite warm today. It is so nice not to have to steer by hand, and also not to have the squalls to worry about.
February 16
0100
Went to storm jib alone today as the wind built in the 30’s with large seas which began to break. Southern Ocean swells. When the boat is at the bottom of the trough the waves look mast height, and 200 to 250 feet apart. Probably not quite so high but they are about that far apart. One problem for the wind vane is that in the troughs the wind is quite calm, increasing to 30-35 on the crest, therefore the vane doesn’t work so well. So we are trying the electric autopilot which is handling the seas much better.
This evening the wind moderated so we set the staysail for awhile, then
later the mainsail and storm jib. But at midnight took down the mainsail so we’re under storm jib only as it’s piped up a bit and the barometer is
down again. May need to set the staysail though to get a bit better speed
(now doing 5).
It is quite amazing how fast the seas can build up, and also subside, down here. In over 30 knots of wind it takes maybe 8 or 12 hours for the seas to become enormous, start to break and become more of a problem to us to the extent we have to be careful to take them stern-to. Yet if it’s then been calm for 8 hours or so the ocean is back down to a long gentle roll.
It’s really too bad the moon is gone now at night because it would be a
great help spotting the big rollers and making sure we take them stern-on. It’s really dark outside most nights, not even much starlight because of the overcast. The rollers of course can be very powerful. Even this evening, when the seas had been gradually getting more moderate, one wave took us and set us flying, then broke over the stern. It would have been bad news to take that one beam-to. Fortunately I was “steering” at the time meaning I was standing in the companion-way with the tiller control lines held loosely, keeping an eye on the waves and the wind vane and giving the vane a hand when necessary. We really have to be on guard for those waves which can pop up out of an otherwise “moderate” sea state (moderate for around here anyway). So we keep pretty steady vigil when the sea is up.
Though today was a relatively warm 48’ the temperature has averaged low to mid 40’s. As a result I permanently wear the following: 2 pairs of wool socks; long-johns covered with pile pants covered (on chilly days) with wool pants; long sleeved Dorlon undershirt covered by a wool shirt or two covered by a wool sweater covered by a pile pullover; and a wool hat worn 24 hours a day. On warm days like today I remove one or two layers of clothing before climbing into my sleeping bag; but on cold days I climb in fully dressed. On cold days when we have to watch the tiller I also wear a wool helmet which covers my face, and lined water-proof mittens which unfortunately aren’t all too water-proof (though they still help keep hands warm even when wet.).
Far deck work we of course generally put on our sea boots and wet weather gear, which have our safety harnesses permanently fitted on them. When we come below decks we take our wet weather gear off and hang it on a rack by the galley, to keep the water out of the main saloon. The main saloon as a result continues to be completely dry. We left New Zealand with a huge sackful of magazines – National Geographic, Sail, many others. We leave a few out at all times and when finished with them we tear out the pages and spread them out on the floor beneath our wet weather gear where we first come in from being on deck. These work very well absorbing the moisture and keeping even the floor reasonably dry.
February 16
2130
This evening was absolutely gorgeous, though it didn’t seem so 6 hours ago. At four pm when Rob went to shut off the engine exhaust seacock, he noticed that the stainless steel bar which is attached to our rudder at water level and which holds the oar of our wind vane had sheered 2 of its 3 bolts. Obviously it had suffered under the heavy loads lately as these are 3/8″ bolts. For awhile it looked like we might want to inflate our dinghy, heave-to and try to fix it this way but we decided instead to remove some of the teak slats of our aft platform to get at it. This turned out to be a tedious job as many of the bolts are corroded in place and had to be hack-sawed off. Then we took some stainless all-thread and, me leaning down one side of the rudder and Rob on the other, we threaded through the new bolts and tightened the nuts on. This operation was performed with our arms and shoulders under water much of the time which at mid 40’s temperature made it on the chilly side. But after 2½ hours work we now have the bar solidly back on and usable. This is a relief as otherwise we would have had to rely on the electric auto-pilot which in turn relies on the engine for electricity, and back up would of course be steering by hand which would not be fun for 2 weeks in these latitudes.
The reason for the optimism, after such a miserable time fixing the vane, is that the wind is down to 15 knots (we now have our genoa up along with the mainsail) and the sea is remarkably smooth; the horizon is not too far from being a flat horizon. Also, the barometer is down and has been down around 988 to 990 for the past day or so. What this means (I hope) with under 1000 miles to Cape Horn is that we have a few more days leeway before the next low sets in; also that since the air pressure is already low that a major low would not be so drastic since the pressure differential would not be as great as if we had, say, high pressure right now. Thus in other words with another week to go to CH we may have to deal with only 1 more low and perhaps that won’t be such a bad one. But as we all know anything can happen, and psychologically, we are ready for anything.
February 18
0130
Someone apparently wants us to steer by hand for the remainder of the voyage for this afternoon, while using our electric autopilot (which does a better job than the wind vane when dead downwind) the pin on the tiller worked loose. Thus I got out a piece of stainless steel, the Honda generator, drilled a hole for the pin and 4 holes for screws, and mounted this on the tiller. The pin now is much better supported and hopefully will last.
Barometer is way down at 980mb but wind continues moderate, 20 knots westerly, though 25 to 30 in frequent squalls. Storm jib and trysail up for the night, 6 knots. Fairly warm lately, high 40’s.
2200
Today the wind varied greatly both in direction and, particularly, strength, between 15 to 30 knots. Now that we’re in the “exposed” 50’s we want to keep the boat moving reasonably close to maximum speed in order to minimize our exposure in these latitudes. Also, we’re beginning to get close and “anticipation” urges us to pay a little more attention to speed and course. Today was a typical day weather wise in terms of the widely varying wind direction and strength. At “cocktail hour” as Rob and I were playing backgammon we started listing all the sail combinations we’d been through and found we had had eleven sail combinations in a 12-hour period! Lots of sail changing today, more than usual but in fact a typical day does bring many changes. Today’s sail combinations, between 6 am and 6 pm were:
Trysail & storm jib; trysail & staysail & storm jib;
Main & staysail & storm jib; main & staysail & #1 genoa;
Main & Staysail; trysail & staysail; trysail & staysail & storm jib;
Trysail & storm jib; trysail & storm jib & storm jib;
Trysail & storm jib; trysail & storm jib & storm jib
The smaller sails, ie staysail & storm jibs we generally keep hanked on the stays so changes are simpler than if we hauled the wet sails down below after each change. The most difficult aspect of all this is the frequent squalls, which typically increase wind strength by 10 to 20 knots. Thus we do a lot of dropping of 1 or 2 sails, then putting it back up. We are finding that the electric autopilot steers a better course than the wind vane, particularly 1) downwind, 2) in erratic sea conditions 3) in wind which fluctuates frequently in strength. It draws about 1 1/4 amps or about 30 amp hours per day which we can certainly accommodate for the remainder of this passage, since it is best that we keep the boat going at maximum efficiency.
No word from Mick the past few days, so we hope he is okay. We did contact a US Coast Guard ship located at Palmer Base, Antarctica and have a schedule with them tomorrow. They may be able to provide us weather information over the next 10 days.
The past week has been quite enjoyable and of course quite a sense of anticipation. For the first time, on this passage, I am not sleeping quite as well – I don’t just drop off like I had been at any time of day or night. There’s a feeling that we’re sitting on a time bomb waiting to go off, and every time the barometer changes (which it does a lot) I think . . . this is it. We fully expect to get hammered at least one more tine. Yet the days are going by and the weather has been, all in all, quite reasonable. The sea is still remarkably tame for these latitudes. Still, with 10 days or so to go, a lot can happen – and the weather can only get worse. On the other hand, we are ready for it, I trust.
February 20
0100
The barometer has dropped 10mb from 990 to 980 in the past 8 hours. It is now blowing NNW Force 7-8 (30-40 knots) so we’re on a reach with single storm jib and trysail, 6 knots. So something is afoot. Either a low is approaching from the West, or else we’re in a trough of low pressure of
some sort. Hopefully it’s a trough, for if it’s a low the wind being so
far in the North may mean the low is on a Latitude not far South of us, to
the West of us and coming our way. The one possibly hopeful sign is the fact that there is no noticeable increase in the Westerly swell, which usually indicates the approach of a low. So we’ll have to wait and see.
In one ironic sense it is almost easier to be caught up in some declining
weather as we can now do something to help ourselves, whereas before we were only waiting and watching which is almost harder on the nerves. Earlier today (before the wind piped up) the autopilot gave up so we’re back to wind vane and no back up. We’ll miss that electric autopilot in the doldrums later on. One good sign today – for only the 2nd day of this entire passage we seem to have picked up a favorable current. We believe we picked up 14 miles today – 1/2 a knot – it would be nice if that holds.
I believe the wind is gusting higher than the strength noted above. The
rigging makes a couple of very distinct high-pitched shrieks when it really howls – you can lie in your bunk and almost tell what it’s blowing by the tone of the whistle.
0230
Barometer down to 977. 3mb drop in 1½ hours. Probably time to go to the
middle-sized storm jib (our largest is up now) Lee rail not yet under water though, nor have the seas had much time to build.
0300
Barometer 974! 6 points during my 3-hour watch. Unfortunately wind now Northeast -yech. Reaching Southeast 5½ knots under medium -sized storm jib & try sail. Roughish.
0800
The barometer dipped down to 969 at 0600 making us think it was going to spin right off the dial, or that we were going to get lambasted, or both,
but instead the strong NE wind died, a front passed through and the wind is now WNW at Force 5-6 (20-25 knots) with almost cloudless skies and, except for the left over NE seas, a fairly moderate sea condition. And the barometer has started to creep up slightly. Maybe we have been spared another day. Or maybe we should stop watching the barometer. In any case the relatively moderate sea conditions makes we think nothing untoward is about to happen.
2200
Today has been as fine a day as we could have, NW wind 20 knots, sunny, warm (48 to 54 degrees) and the seas remain moderate. We are on a broad reach 6 to 6½ knots with mainsail (still, as always since we tore it so long ago, double reefed) staysail and #3. We could put up the #1 genoa but the double headsail rig is almost as fast and is a safer sail combination in that these sails are easier to drop if the wind freshens. Tonight I made the voyage’s all-time worst meal, namely “Hamburger Helper” using one of our jars of canned hamburger. We do much better cooking on our own without help from “Mr. Helper.” 500 miles to go to the point ahead. Southern Cross is hanging right over the mast, nearly overhead. We are now South of 55’
February 21
0530
Wind now light 10-15 knots from NNE and we are not quite laying our course on port tack. Morning sky is red. Barometer has been very steady at 972 but now at 971. A very noticeable, low, long Westerly swell has developed. Possible weather coming our way from the West, or else we are now so far South that this is a usual swell running towards Drake Passage. Time will tell.
1700
Today had the potential to become Black Thursday for us because for 6 hours this morning the wind blew from East South East – exactly the direction we need to go – and build to 25 knots. But it has gradually shifted around to the South so we are proceeding True East at 6 knots with 2 storm jibs and the trysail in 25+ knots. Seas are moderate, fortunately. If they build too much we will not be able to drive the boat so hard. But for the moment we have been making reasonable time in a reasonable direction. Sky lightening a bit from its previous drizzle. Temperature 45’. Our foul weather gear is doing a fantastic job keeping us dry, which in the past day or two has included a couple of pretty good dunkings in the icy water while changing jibs on the bowsprit. All fairly well today. Barometer stationary at 972. With the earlier ESE wind only did around 100 miles +/- today. The lack of a major swell is encouraging though as it could foretell more severe weather.
February 22
0800
Awoken for my watch starting at 0600 to find stormy conditions, SW wind. The British Pilot tells us we can expect winds Force 7 and above (over 30 knots) about a third of the time from here on. We took down the trysail and are now on a reach/ broad reach under single storm jib, around 6 knots. Hopefully this won’t blow too long so the seas don’t become too big. Right now they are quite manageable but starting to roar a bit. Barometer has climbed to 983 but who knows what that means anymore. Temperature is 41’ on deck so it was chilly on the hands to be on deck handling sails. Seas have a ways to go to reach the proportions as they were in the gale a while back so hopefully this won’t occur. All well aboard.
0800
I re-set the trysail as the breeze has moderated a bit and we are back to 6½ knots or so. Good chance to make some time.
February 23
0400
Yesterday was spent mainly with storm jib, staysail and trysail. First in SW breeze which then shifted to NW. Tonight we are back down to only storm jib and trysail in a breezy & variable night. Steering True East on a broad reach. We actually need to make more Southing but cannot head any further downwind at present. Will have to jibe tomorrow if the wind remains this direction..
February 24
0130
A stormy day today with frequent and regular squalls so we spent much of the day under single storm jib averaging just over 5 knots. Seas built up to “mini greybeard” size. Tonight however conditions are more moderate so we have the staysail and trysail up on a broad reach. Still get the squalls every hour or so.
We are at 56’30” latitude and are heading true East on this Latitude with about 150 miles to go to the Point. We will carefully monitor the sea conditions later today to decide whether it is safe to go over the continental shelf, and therefore have a chance to see the Point. If
conditions are extremely rough we will ease South a bit more and skirt
outside the continental shelf. Where large seas meet the shallower water they can become quite turbulent and dangerous; however, we are hoping to be able to go onto the Shelf and see a bit of land.
In one of the squalls today a big rainbow formed ahead of the boat, a
perfect semicircle with brilliant colorings, and it was as if we were
sailing right under this big colorful archway. It seemed like a good omen –
“come this way, under the rainbow Christopher Robin.”
Today we made contact with the South Atlantic Maritime Mobile net and with a fellow in the Falklands. They confirmed that the ice limit and the pack ice this year is well South, and that in fact it’s been fairly good summer weatherwise. So no complaints from this quarter.
The clothes that I have been wearing continually for so long really are
getting disgusting. If there is anyone who does laundry in Port Stanley they are going to wish they never saw us.
We still continue to detect no favorable current whatsoever which has been a disappointment – only a random few miles on a couple of days have we gotten any help this whole trip.
Temperature has been in the mid to upper 40’s lately. I am completely
comfortable with this temperature, though hands get chilled when you are changing sails and so on. Of course we are dressed in many layers so are prepared for the cool weather and we do fire up the cabin heater typically once a day which takes the chill off as well as provides a bit of drying effect.
February 24
1330
We are on soundings! I just turned on the depth sounder and it corresponds with the chart at 70-75 fathoms. We are sailing Northeast in order to clear the Diego Ramirez Isles which we will hopefully do before dark. 75 miles to “The Point.” West to Northwest breeze today, 20 knots except over 30 in occasional squalls. Otherwise, it’s sunny and the seas are moderate!!!
1730
LAND HO!
Diego Ramirez visible to the South about 10 miles. A lonely forlorn looking place to be, exposed to the Drake Passage.
February 25
0330
Cabo de Hornos visible 10 miles north of us standing out amongst the stars. Appropriate toasts made to my family and friends. Not many Capes would I come so far to see. Thanks Christopher Robin for bringing us here so well. Looking forward to sunrise. Wind 10-15 Westerly, gentle seas.
February 27
1900
We had a beautiful morning to see the Island of Hornos, sunny, moderate
winds and seas. There can’t be too many pictures of sunny skies and calm seas and Cape Horn and we now own a sizable collection of these as we went through a lot of film at 7 miles distance.
Winds have been Westerly 15-25 knots the past couple of days and
unfortunately our self steering vane has finally broken. We have been
watching the 1″ stainless steel bar gradually crack over the past week or
two and it finally went the day we rounded Cape Horn! I spent a morning fabricating a spare bracket of 2 x 4 timber but by the time it was ready to install the seas had built up considerably. After 10 minutes of hanging upside down over the stern with my head and shoulders being dipped frequently into the icy seas I decided that we could just as easily sail the remaining 300 miles to the Falklands steering by hand so that’s what we’re doing.
Port Stanley – March 1, 1985
Yesterday the 28th we pushed the boat very hard averaging over 7 knots. I once surfed to 11.8 knots! though our speed-o reads ½ knot high. At dawn we had 60 miles to go so we pushed to get into port before a strong Westerly wind. First the mainsail, staysail and storm jib but we gradually reduced to storm jib and trysail only still doing 7 to 8 knots. Fortunately Port Stanley was on the lee side of the island, so we took very careful bearings and a good watch on the compass to avoid the nasty off-lying rocks at the entrance to Port Stanley. Then we beat 8 miles up the bay with trysail and storm jib and beat into the harbor itself past the town which overlooks the harbor.
We spent the night tied alongside a small freighter and sit here today in a strong Westerly wind. Tonight or tomorrow we’ll move out to one of the big mooring buoys where the boat will be safer from the strong winds which blow here regularly.
The people we wet have been extremely friendly, including those we met at the pub last night. This is most certainly a very unique place on earth, a population of 1800 rugged individuals. The military presence is noticeable with helicopters and jets buzzing around though the personnel do not seem to stay near the main town. The landscape is quite barren and evokes feelings of sympathy for the boys who had to fight on these hills, including on occasion close fighting with bayonets.
The words of another British fighter have been in my mind so frequently in the past 51 days that I would like to close this section of my journal with them:
“Withhold no sacrifice
Grudge no toil
Seek no sordid gain
Fear no foe
All will be well …”
- – Winston Churchill
Sailing Stories - Max Fletcher 